Monday 28 January 2008

Road Trip - Monkey Mia

We left Dongara, and continued our trek north. Stopped for lunch at 440 roadhouse. There was food, groceries, fishing gear, auto parts; a bit of everything really.

This is where Western Australia starts changing. There's lots of red dirt. We saw wild goats beside the road. Along the way there were 24hr stopover sites - a huge parking bay off the main road with a toilet, bins, and BBQ.

Stopped at Billabong Roadhouse, noticed they had internet access. Just outside Billabong we spotted a lone cyclist on the road. I'm amazed that anyone could ride such distances in the middle of the Australian summer.

We turned off at the Overland Roadhouse, and headed toward Denham. We drove through the Electric vermin-proof fence. A sign beside the fence says that it was erected to keep livestock out of the marine park. There are speakers on each side of the road with recorded barking dogs, to scare off the animals. My wife called it "dog in a can".



We arrived Denham.


Water in Denham is produced from a desalination plant, so there are 3 grades of water available: potable (desalinated), bore water, salt water. There's a sign near the entrance of the town which reads:

Attention Visitors to Denham

Potable water in denham is supplied from a desalination plant operated by the Water Corporation. Desalination of water on such a scale is still a relatively new and expensive technology but a supply adequate for normal potable uses is made available at a greatly subsidised price ...

Each property has an annual allowance of this highly subsidised water. Usage in excess of the allowance is charged at a penalty price which reflects the true cost ...

In order to remain with the allowance desalinated water should only be used for drinking, kitchen, bathroom and laundry purposes and not for other uses such as toilet and garden. A separate connection of artesian water is made to each property for these purposes

Please use desalinated water sparingly to conserve the subsidised supply and to avoid severe penalty charges.

Outside the Water Coporation depot there's a coin operated water dispenser. For $1.00, we got 10l of water. I guess at home we're so used to just turning on the tap, without giving another thought to the cost...

We arrived at Monkey Mia. Its much different to how I remember it 24 years ago (1984) when I visited here with my parents. Back then it was just a tin shed, a couple of caravans, salt water showers, and shell beach. Now it's a full-blown resort: hotel, cabins, caravans, camping, pool, store, pub, restaurant, internet access! Eco tours. Canoes, small boats for hire. Very civilised.


Only grassed site available. Shared with lots of others. Tent city! Grass is nice – no sand, only shell grit.

Sunday 27 January 2008

Road Trip - Dongara

This is the entry statement to Dongara. The plaque on the sculpture reads:

This entry statement was unveiled by Mr Shane Hill, JP MLA in the presence of Cr Robyn Parsons JP, Shire President, on 5 September 2005 and was jointly funded by the the Midwest Development Commission and the Shire of Irwin.



We went swimming at Dongara the next day. There's a huge amount of seaweed between the sand dunes and the beach. We didn't realise how deep it was until we got to the edge of it as you can see in the photo below. It's a bit like quicksand - you don't know if you're going to sink up to your knees with your next step.

While we were at Dongara we had a look around, and found this monument, an obelisk to commemorate shipwreck Leander in 1853. The plaque says that the captain made a mistake and thought he was in Geraldton, and as a result struck a reef and sank. The Obelisk now serves to warn other sailors. Perhaps it's a monument to stupidity?

To commemorate the loss of the brigantine leander near this point on 11 November 1853. Due to a fault in it's chronometer, Leander under captain R Johnston on route from Fremantle to Singapore via Champion Bay turned for it's run into Geraldton too soon and collided with South Leander Reef. As an aid to navigation this obelisk was erected in 1869.


Because of the seaweed, we tried another beach in Dongara, and came across this sign for the skate park. The fine print describes the permitted activities on the skate park (supposedly) behind the sign.

Just behind the sign, there's a cliff drop onto beach. If there was a skate park there, it ain't there no more …

We took a day trip into Geraldton, and passed through Greenough. At Greenough there is what I regard as a modern-day Aussie homestead, with the classic roof and a verandah that goes all the way around the house. The triple garage doesn't look too bad either.

Near Greenough are the classic leaning trees. There's one beside the road, with a parking area so you can take a photo. There's a sign nearby that reads:

The "Leaning Trees" of Greenough belong to a native Western Australian species of River Gum. Their characteristic "lean" is caused by constant strong southerly winds that burn off growth on the windward side (flagging).

This eucalypt is known to be a hardy grower, though it has weak branches.



Just outside Geraldton there was a sign that made me laugh. Some real estate agent would have a field day with this one. I can just read the headlines now "classic fixer-upper". In the background is the remains of an old homestead, with only one corner of one wall remaining upright. The fine print in the ad "some attention required - renovators dream!"

Wednesday 23 January 2008

Road Trip - Cervantes/Dongara

The day we left Cervantes, we stopped at lake Thetis, just outside Cervantes, to look at the Stromatolites.


The sign by the lake reads:

Lake Thetis is one of the few sites in the world where living Stromatolites are found. Occurring as domes of limestone around the edge of the lake, stromatolites are formed by the activity of microbial communities trapping and binding sediment and precipitating calcium carbonate from teh ater. The dominant microbes are photosynthetic bacteria called cyanobacteria (formerly known as "blue-green algae")

Stromatolites are very slow growing, and those at Lake Thetis are more than 1200 years old. Fossil stromatolites similar to these that have been found in 3500 million year old rocks in the Pilbarra represent the earliest evidence of life on earth.

We stopped at Thirsty Point at the edge of cervantes, and walked to a lookup at the point. The panoramic view was beautiful


From Cervantes, we drove through Jurien. Stopped at a camping shop there, and found they had a sale on. We purchased a bigger tent, and a shade tent for a camp kitchen. Driving past the caravan park , it looked like nice place to stay. We'll put that on our list of places to stay in the future.

From Jurien, we drove through Green Head, then Leeman. The roadhouse/cafe had a great menu to choose from.

From Leeman we took the turnoff to Lake Indoon. This is a camping site is patrolled by the local ranger, and it has a good setup - rain water tank, toilet block, gas hot water showers, BBQs. Normally the lake is used for water skiing, but when we got there it was more like big mud flat. I'd say we were there at the wrong time of year. Maybe winter time ...

We arrived in Dongara and stayed at the Top Tourist Park. There are four caravan parks in town, but I think the first one (Top Tourist park) is best for tent camping. Well setup. Shadecloth on the ground. Kitchen, Laundry, BBQ area, playground. Lots of things to check out.We loved the shaded areas. We were able to setup our (new) tents in a protected corner of the park. Since we had the extra gear, we decided to stay an extra day. No flies! Humid, gentle breeze.

Monday 21 January 2008

Road Trip - Cervantes

We left Lancelin and and headed for Badgingarra, where the parents of friends of ours live. We stopped for a cuppa and a chat, and from there headed over to Cervantes. Along the way we crossed over the Dampier/Bunbury gas pipeline which is in the process of being built.

The caravan park at Cervantes was busy. They have a "camp kitchen", with a stove, kettle (coffee!), sinks and a fridge, which made it much easier for us.

We went shopping for supplies, and went past the real-estate agents. The house prices there are quite expensive - $750,000! It reminded me of Augusta, which seemed to be a strange mix of "shacks", and massive modern houses.

Just outside Cervantes is the Pinnacles Desert. This is a forest of limestone pillars that makes it look like some ancient civilization. No-one is really sure how they came to exist. There's a lookout platform in the middle, and you can look out over the edge of the desert to the sand dunes. Very impressive.




Thursday 17 January 2008

Road Trip - Lancelin

We headed into Lancelin from Gingin, and took the Indian Ocean Drive. Our map book says that the road was due to be complete by 2005, and when complete connects all the coastal towns together, but when we got to Lancelin there were big road blocks and lots of machinery. The Mid West Development Corporation say that the road will be completed in 3 years.

We stayed at North End Caravan Park in Lancelin. One of the things we liked about the caravan park was that the tent sites had shadecloth pegged into the ground. It made it much easier to setup the tents and keep the sand out.

Over the sand dunes from the caravan park was the water. The kids loved getting dumped by the waves. There was lots of seaweed, and my youngest gave a most dramatic rendition of "man eaten alive by seaweed" - a real academy performance.


There was a lookout platform up in the sand dunes. I went up there to capture the sunset, and met some kids that were there. They saw my camera, and thought I was a professional photographer, and hopped up on the rail for a photo opportunity. The whole place gave me a feeling of Home and Away. They were disappointed that I only did this as a hobby. I don't know if these kids have internet access, but if they do, "Hi Callan and Aiden!"

On the way out from Lancelin, we saw power lines crossing the country side. There were two sets of lines, little ones and big ones. It was like "when I grow up, I want to be like you".

Tuesday 15 January 2008

Road Trip - Gingin

After we left Willowbrook, we stopped to have a look at Gingin. In the center of town there is a park. The archway on the edge of the park comes from one of the original homesteads in the area. The sign reads

The first house on "Ginginup Station", later called "Cheriton" was built by the owner W. L Brockman, about 1854. The front entrance to the house was through an archway which is reproduced here using some of the original limestone blocks. Rebuilt in 1987 by Gingin Shire Council with assistance from the Australian Bicentennial Authority.


There is a nearby water fountain with a plaque which reads

The Granville Scenic Pool officially named and opened by the shire president N T Fewster JP on Saturday 17th April 1976.


The waterfall reads:

This waterwheel is a replicate of one used to drive Cheriton Flour Mill. This mill was established in 1855 and was situated 2kms further upstream on this brook on Swan Location 101.

The axle is the original one from the mill. The wheel was remade by Mr Frank Butler of Gingin for the Gingin Shire Council in 1978. The pump being drive by the water wheel was designed by installed by Mr Neil Butcher of Beermullah in 1984. This pump operates the fountain in the centre of Granville Pool.


Across the road from the park is a picnic and BBQ area with a nature walk. By the picnic tables are a series of displays detailing the early settler's life in and around Gingin.



Later on in the day we stopped at a parking bay by the Moore River for Lunch. It was a very busy site, with lots of people stopping for a break. At the park they had a Composting eco-toilet, maybe that's the drawcard ...


Monday 14 January 2008

Road Trip - Willowbrook/Lancelin

Waking up at Willowbrook was peaceful, with the air full of bird calls. There were the sounds of peacocks, kookaburras, cockatoos that made a racket in the early morning. As we were making breakfast, Ozzie the Jack Russell dog come and sniffed us out, hoping for a tidbit.

Harry and Kaye have a tradition of "Meet and Greet" on Sunday mornings, where they supply hot scones and an opportunity to meet the other travellers. The Geese came along to check out all the action.

We met a couple who had retired, sold their home and bought a caravan, and they just travel constantly around Australia. I'm told that they are part of the group known as Grey Nomads.

One of the other travellers who was staying at the farm had converted an old army truck into a campervan. There's a tow hitch on the back, and a special A-fram adaptor that allows him to tow a small 4WD behind. It's quite tall, so you need a ladder to climb up into the back. I wouldn't want to stumble out at night to go to the loo...


We had a look around the farm, and saw some gravestones. These were memorials to the original settlers of this farm. Below are the inscriptions.

In memory of James Browne, who died July 21, 1900, aged 86 years. Immaculate heart of Mary, your prayers for him extol. In Sacred Heart of Jesus have mercy on his soul.

Sacred to the memory of Edmund Dooling, died Jan 26, 1894 aged 67 years. Also Edmund Joseph, the beloved son of Edmund and Mary Dooling, aged 3 years.

Precious ones from us has gone. The voices we love have stilled ... (the rest of the inscription is unreadable)

Our Dear Mother Mary Dooling who departed this left 25th Sept 1912 aged 77 years and 6 months.

For days and nights she bore her pain
To wait for cure was all in vain;
But God alone, who thought it best
Did ease her pain and give her rest
My children dear my time is past
I loved you all while life did last
Weep not for me nor sorrow take
But love each other for my sake.


Also on the property was the original shearing shed, although it looks like it hasn't been used for shearing for some time now.


On the way out, spotted this figurine:

We did some sight-seeing at Gingin, and then continued our trek up north. We stopped at Lancelin and setup camp for the night.

Sunday 13 January 2008

Road Trip - Guilderton/Willowbrook

Two Rocks did not have anywhere to stay, so onto the next town on the way - Guilderton.

On the way to Guilderton we passed by the Gravity Discovery Centre. Once again, passed by too late in the day to have a look. Next trip ...

Guilderton is at the mouth of the Moore River. The wind there was fairly constant, as you can see by the trees below.

Unfortunately the caravan park was full. It was getting close to sunset, and I really didn't want to be putting up tents in the dark. We saw a brochure at the caravan park for Willowbrook Farm, which is near Gingin.

Harry and Kaye White, the owners of Willowbrook, were very helpful in getting us settled in. It is a beautiful place, an old farm which is now turned into a caravan park. There were grassed bays, power, water and drainage throughout the park, and clean ablutions blocks.

Road Trip - Yanchep/Two Rocks

It's time for a holiday. We wanted to get away from the office, the distractions, so we could have a real break. Somewhere different, somewhere we haven't been before as a family. How about a road trip! All we had to do was pick a direction, load up the car with camping gear, and we'd be off.

A stressful lead-up to the trip, trying to finish all the urgent work-related projects before we left.

Took the cat to the vet. She hasn't been well for some time. When we first took her to the vet, they said it was either an infected jaw, or cancer. The prescribed antibiotics weren't making a difference, and she was getting worse. It turned out to be cancer, so sadly we had to have her put down.

Sent my oldest son out for a shopping trip to buy batteries for torches etc. $40 for batteries. He won't let me forget just how much it cost ... $40!

The house-sitter lost the house keys. Finally found them in a biscuit box where they had fallen in.

First attempt at packing the car failed. We obviously had too much stuff to fit in the car. So, quick trip to the relatives for a box trailer. We packed the trailer, loaded up the car, and started off. Before we got to the end of the street we thought we'd better check the trailer lights. Sure enough, no lights on the trailer. U-turn, then back to home to fix the problem. Half an hour later, we're off.

We had a simple agenda: head north. Stop at the nearest town when we're ready to stop. Look at whatever takes our interest. Take photos.

After quite a few wrong turns, we finally headed north to Bullsbrook, then turned left to head toward the coast. We passed by The Maze, but because we got away so late it was closed by the time we got there.

First stop: Yanchep. When we got there, the only place to stay was completely full. Onto the next town: Two Rocks. At Two Rocks, at the top of a hill near the town was this sculpture:



Nearby there were these amazing sandstone sculptures. The inscription with the sculptures reads, in part:

Waugal Monoliths Legend

The Waugals, legendary spirits with supernatural powers living deep within the Yanchep waters for thousands of years, featured in mythical rites and were regarded with fear and awe by the local natives.

Aboriginal folklore handed down for generations tells how the waugal dragged its victims down into the depths of the lake to imprison them there forever.

The legend, recreated here in limestone by WA Sculptor Mark Le Buse, provides a valuable link with our WA heritage.








Nowhere to stay at Two Rocks, either, so we had to press on.

Star Trekkin'

Friday 4 January 2008

Gang Member Hidden in Back Seat Myth

I received this email from a friend of mine today:

This actually happened a few weeks ago right here in Perth. It was early evening and a young lady stopped to get petrol. She filled her tank and walked into the store to pay for her petrol. The cashier told her 'Don't pay for your petrol yet.....walk around the store for a while and act as if you're picking up some other things to buy. A man just got into the back of your car. I've called the police and they're on their way'. When the police arrived, they found the man in the back seat of the girl's car and asked him what he was doing. He replied, he was joining a gang and the initiation to join is to kidnap a woman and bring her back to the gang to be raped by every member of the gang. If the woman was still alive by the time they finish with her then they let her go. According to the police that night, there is a new gang forming here originating from Melbourne. The scary part of this is because the guy didn't have a weapon on him. The police could only charge him with trespassing.... He's back on the street and free to try again. Please be aware of what's going on around you and for your family and friends. LADIES you or one of your family and friends could be the next victim.


A quick Google search revealed the following article on Hoax Slayer. The following paragraphs are from that article.

This actually happened a few weeks ago right here near Fairfield in Brisbane. It was early evening and a young lady stopped to get petrol at a Quix. She filled her tank and walked into the store to pay for her petrol. The cashier told her "Don't pay for your petrol yet.....walk around the store for a while and act as if you're picking up some other things to buy. A man just got into the back of your car. I've called the police and they're on their way".

The dubious "warning" included above is a rehashed variant of an old urban legend that has been passed around since at least the 1960's. The legend of the criminal hiding in the back seat of a motor vehicle ready to attack the helpless female driver predates the Internet by decades. In this instance, someone has created a version of the hoax specifically aimed at Australian recipients. It is very similar to other versions of the hoax that are set in the US, Ireland, Canada and various other locations around the world.

Searches of the Queensland Police Service website reveal no reports of the incidents described in the warning email. I have found no credible news reports about such abduction attempts in Queensland or elsewhere in Australia. If the "gang initiation" method described in the message was really occurring and was a matter of police record, it would have almost certainly been given attention in the mainstream media. Also, if they were true, warnings about such gang activity would be released via official channels rather than distributed via the random forwarding of an email.

Because of this lack of confirmation from any reliable source, the email warning has very little credibility. Also, the fact that similar, and equally unsubstantiated, versions have circulated in different areas of the world for many years indicates that this Australianised variant is as much a work of fiction as its predecessors.

Of course, it is possible that a criminal could hide in a back seat of a vehicle and attack the driver. In fact an article on Snopes.com reveals that the legend may have been derived from a real incident. In 1964, an escaped criminal apparently hid in the back of a car and was subsequently shot by the car's owner, a police officer. However, unlike the subsequent stories, the criminal's motive was apparently just to escape the authorities and his plans were thwarted decisively by the male driver. In spite of this tenuous connection to a real event, there is absolutely no evidence that gang initiation rituals using the modus operandi described in the message are actually occurring.

Like many urban legends, there is some wisdom hidden among the nonsense. It is of course advisable for both male and female drivers to remain vigilant and always lock their vehicles, even if they are only stepping away for a short time.


So, by all means lock your car when you leave it, but please check out your source of information before forwarding it on to your friends.

Tuesday 1 January 2008

No fishing

Saw this sign in a paddock during our country travels:


The other sign says "No Extreme Water Sports"...